Leftover Lamb Fat Potatoes

Killjoys in white coats have been revising, re-revising and re-re-revising their advice on animal fat for decades.

First it was good, then bad, good again, and now it's OK-ish, provided you run 12K after dinner.

The problem is they're using science, which isn't particularly good at measuring the spiritual benefits of potato-based joy. Google 'the spiritual benefits of potato-based joy' and you won't find a single medical journal article on the subject. Not one. Yet these crunchy lamb fat potatoes will cuddle your soul from the inside and flood your brain with happy-juice. That has to offset whatever they may be doing to your inner thighs and your arteries, right?

The only drawback is that you have to roast some lamb first. Oh what a shame. My go-to is lamb shoulder. It's the fattiest and tastiest limb of lamb you'll find, and after a 4-hour slow roast at 160C, it'll deliver half a cup of rendered fat - and a meltingly tender meaty feast.

Lamb fat has a very high smoke-point, which means you can fry or roast at high temperatures without burning the oil. It's particularly good for making roast potatoes, crispy bottomed fried eggs or browning meat. And that ever-so-slightly musty lambiness adds a depth of flavour you'll never get from vegetable oil.

Rendering the lamb fat

Any cut of lamb with a good layer of fat will do but the shoulder is particularly giving. A slow and low roast will release anywhere between half a cup and a cup of fat - more than enough for a big batch of roast potatoes. Pour the hot fat into a jar and it'll last months in the fridge.

If the fat's sitting on top of other meat juices, just refrigerate the lot and the fat will solidify into a liftable layer.

Leftover Lamb Fat Potatoes

~ Serves 6 as a side dish ~

Ingredients

12 medium roasting potatoes, peeled and halved

2 tbsp salt (for the cooking water

1 tsp salt for sprinkling on the potatoes

4 tbsp rendered lamb fat

~ Method ~

Simmer the potatoes for about 20-30 minutes in salty water until softened but not falling apart. Drain off the liquid (save it for gravy if you like) and give the potatoes a good shake in the pan to scruff-up the edges. (Scruffy edges = crunchy roast potatoes.)

Now for the important part. Let the potatoes steam-dry on a tea towel or metal rack for half an hour or more. You can leave the potatoes out to dry all day if you like - the drier they get, the better they'll crisp.

Melt the lamb fat in a roasting pan and arrange the potatoes in a single layer. Sprinkle with half a teaspoon of salt.

I start the crisping process on the stovetop, coating and sauteing the potatoes before they go in the oven.

Transfer the potatoes to the oven and roast at 220C for an hour. Turn them every 20 or so minutes.

Once they're nicely browned and crunchy, lift them out of the tray onto absorbant kitchen towels to soak up any excess oil. Sprinkle them with the remaining half-teaspoon of salt (this helps keep them crispy) and serve them with anything - or nothing.